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2022-11-14
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This restaurant is located in The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, right between the Michelin-starred Amber and Sushi Shikon. It is a casual diner focusing on wines and sakes, with over 1,600 different choices and several sommeliers helping customers to select their preferred choice on the occasion.The design, looking from the outside, is reminiscent of a barrel, with the whole restaurant in circular shape, having wooden ceiling, floor, and tables. In the middle is a circular bar, with different wine
This restaurant is located in The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, right between the Michelin-starred Amber and Sushi Shikon. It is a casual diner focusing on wines and sakes, with over 1,600 different choices and several sommeliers helping customers to select their preferred choice on the occasion.
The design, looking from the outside, is reminiscent of a barrel, with the whole restaurant in circular shape, having wooden ceiling, floor, and tables. In the middle is a circular bar, with different wines and liquors in the background. We are seated at the inner end of the banquette which offers nice privacy and space.
We order the 5-course set menu ($998 each) with also the interesting Sommelier Battle Wine Pairing ($800). There are two wines served in each of the pairing, chosen by different sommelier, trying to see which one the customer prefers with the food.
For the first course, we opt for Aka Uni French Toast ($180 supplement). A signature of the restaurant, the soft brioche toast is soft in texture with nice buttery taste, with an abundance of fresh red sea urchin on top. The sea urchin is sweet and have a clean flavour, melting in the mouth. A very nice starter.
The two wines served are Domaine Bruno Clair Morey-Saint-Denis Blanc 2016, a pretty rare Chardonnay from the village, and Jonata La Flor de Jonata 2006, a 100% Sauvignon Blanc from Santa Ynez Valley, both are good but personally I prefer the first one with the buttery note more complementary with the French toast.
The second course is Seared Scallops with Organic Taiwanese Corn. The Hokkaido scallops are beautifully seasoned, caramelized on the surface but soft and tender inside. The crisp and the piece of corn added sweetness to the dish, which is nicely balanced with a Espelette foam and a bit of Chive-infused Olive Oil to add further complexity.
The third course is Line Caught Medai Grilled on the Skin on Binchotan, giving the slow-cooked sea bream a slight smoky note on the skin but keeping the flesh moist. The Romanesco Sauce is made from Fermented Bell Pepper, rich with flavours, with some Sichuan Pepper oil to give a kick of spiciness. On the side is some Caramelized White Onion which balances the spiciness with a bit of sweetness.
The two wines paired are both from Northern Rhone, including Jean-Luc Colombo Le Rouet Rouge 2015, a Hermitage red, and Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Terrasses de l’Empire 2020, a Viognier. Both wines are more full-bodied to match with the stronger flavours of the fish and sauce, and I prefer the Condrieu with its more intense fruity notes to balance with the spicy undertone of the Romanesco sauce.
The fourth course is Bresse Pigeon & Foie Gras Pithivier ($598 supplement for two). A traditional French delicacy, the chef has the pigeon breast, foie gras and a layer of chicken mousse wrapped in a truffle crisp, before encasing it in a puff pastry for baking. On the side are some Fermented Forest Berries, finishing with Jus from the pigeon bones and Port wine. At perfect medium rare, the pigeon is tender, with the foie gras rich but not excessively heavy. The signature pairing with the berries and the impeccable jus are of great harmony. My pick on the evening.
The two wines served are Henri Bonneau et Fils Les Rouliers and La Massa Giorgio Primo. The former is a special wine, classified under ‘Vin de France’ because of its blending of different vintages, but in itself is an excellent Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The La Massa Giorgio is a Super Tuscan that I originally mistake as a Bordeaux on the nose. Both are good but I prefer the latter, because of its higher acidity matching better with the sauce.
For the dessert, both of us choose Gariguette Raspberry Tart with Strawberry Clafoutis & Mascarpone Ice Cream. The nice acidity from the French strawberry and the tartness of the raspberry puree is refreshing, balancing well with the sweetness of mascarpone ice-cream. And to pair with the dessert, I also order an additional glass of Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Auslese Goldkaspel 2003 ($455), which got great balance of sweetness and acidity.
The Petits Fours is a Salted Chocolate Tart, with rich and nice cocoa notes offering a rewarding and fulfilling finale to the meal, with the sprinkle of salt providing an interesting complementary taste to the sweetness. Together with a cup of espresso it is a wonderful finale to the meal.
The service is very good, with the sommelier introducing in length about the wines and their characters, how the pair can match with the food, and also ask for my feedback afterwards. I found this approach very engaging and interesting for wine-lovers, and definitely a high point for the restaurant. The bill on the night is $4,743 and whether you like wine or not, this is a good restaurant I recommend.
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