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2013-02-09
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Having been consecutively featured in the Pellegrino’s Top 50 Restaurants in the world, AMBER this year slotted in comfortably at no. 44... This makes them the most highly placed restaurant in Hong Kong and Macau region despite not being awarded a 3 star rating. I partially agree with this assessment, as Richard Ekkbus’s food is so sensible and well executed in general and you can count on him to perform. On the other hand I always encountered 2 or 3 obvious weaknesses here: Eg. the
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Iberico Croquettes with Piccalilli Pickles - $98These are the signature Amuse Bouches here. Today’s version was quite pickled sour and the promised Nose to Tail pigs usage, seemed a little too weak. At least it was bursting in your mouth in the end! ~ 7.5/10
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Da Hong Pao ‘Oolong’ Tea from Fujian, China - $88This seemed a little too uninteresting for a Da Hong Pao Oolong definitely. The 2nd flush was better in the end after more steeping time, but it carried little of the retrieval moment when an Oolong takes a real U-Turn and surprises u in a fruity and tannic composure during it's secondary stage. This tea came with some Gingery, Matcha and Coffee cookies which were great. ~ 6.5/10
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Caramelized Apple Tarte Tatin – $48While the base pastry was well browned and crisp, so appreciated!! Yum. But the baked apple on top was not too caramelized and came at refrigerated temperature. Taboo for a Tarte Tatin even for a modernized interpretation. The green apple slices on top were adorned with lemon zest, which was appreciated. Overall this was quite decent but ultimately, the apples in taste and temperature sort of let it down and it was not spiced in taste either. ~ 6.9/10
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Tonka Bean Crème Brulee, Valrhona Nyangbo 68% Chocolate Cremeux, with Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream, Roasted Pistachios - $160The Tonka Bean flavour was subtle at best, compared to the other ingredients featured in the same dessert! Tonka flavoured desserts in my experience should carry a taste of both vanilla-like essence yet caramel sweetness and a distinct fresh sap wood like aroma. Not here though unfortunately. The Chocolate cremeux layer was quite mousse like enough if not too thick. Overall this was great especially with that Croustillant crispy layer, yet you somehow will wish for more of that illegal to sell in the US, unique Tonka Beans taste. I remember I have had better before especially in Holland. But then they also make weed ice cream over there ~ 7/10
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85% Valrhona Abinao Dark Chocolate Souffle, with Cacao Ice Cream, Chocolate Crisp & Soil – $160The soufflé climbed evenly along the side wall yes, but ultimately the sprinkling of sugars along the side ended up being contributing to the grainy sugary bits when biting in! The chocolate taste was not so apparent and the texture was somehow reminding me of a floating island than a fluffy cloud like souffle. The best part of this dessert was the cacao ice cream, which they called a sorbet which would otherwise be fruit based. It was promising but ultimately it was just so-so in taste and too starchy.. ~ 7/10
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