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2024-03-02
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My third visit to 大圍小館 and the food here continues to surprise and delight! We ordered four dishes for four people: stir fry king with dried seafood (惹味海蝦干小炒王), char siu (第一叉), black pepper crab with turnip cake(干煸黑胡椒蘿蔔糕蟹), and fried rice with lard (豬油炒飯).First up was the stir fry king, and what a dish to start the meal! Every ingredient was cooked to perfection. The flowering garlic chives had just the right crunch; the dried squid and dried shrimp were chewy and crispy all at once. All these e
First up was the stir fry king, and what a dish to start the meal! Every ingredient was cooked to perfection. The flowering garlic chives had just the right crunch; the dried squid and dried shrimp were chewy and crispy all at once. All these elements were topped off with some incredibly moreish fried sunflower seeds. They say that the stir fry king is the dish to test the skills of a Cantonese chef, and Tai Wai Dining Room’s version shows that they are at the top of their game.
Next up was the char siu. I was honestly a bit disappointed to find that they had changed the recipe. The crispy rice was gone, and the sauce had also been altered from dried tangerine peel to pineapple. Despite these changes, it's still some of the best char siu I've ever had. The pineapple sauce is a tad sweeter than its predecessor, and the absence of crispy rice allows you to focus more on the flavor of the pork. The texture of the meat itself remains exactly as it was before: a precise balance of fat and meat, all cooked to optimal tenderness. I personally preferred the previous iteration, but I might change my mind the next time I try the char siu again.
The final dishes of the night were black pepper crab and fried rice with lard. Both were served at the same time, but let’s talk about the crab first. It’s quite easy for the sauce, especially one with black pepper, to overpower the delicate taste of the crab in such a dish. But somehow, Tai Wai Dining Room managed to showcase the sweetness of the crab meat while delivering a subtle hint of heat from the black pepper. It’s the culinary equivalent of an intricate sax solo accompanied by a tight yet restrained rhythm section in a jazz ensemble - precision, technique, and artistry all wrapped into one.
Save the best for last, as the saying goes, and this is exactly what I’m doing with the fried rice with lard. It may sound like the simplest dish in the world, but this is no ordinary fried rice. Visually, every grain of rice looks like it’s been stir fried individually, with not a single one sticking together. The umami and savouriness from the sauce and the lard are the first things that hit you when you take a bite. And just as your palette is starting to unravel the different layers of flavours, you are enveloped in a tornado of “wok hei”. The smokiness ascends through your nostrils, and you can practically feel the heat and flame that have kissed every nanometre of the fried rice. Is this an overzealous description of rice and lard? Order it and find out for yourself.
張貼
