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2021-05-18
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Located in Wellington Street, Central, Ando has just been awarded Michelin 1-star status in 2021. The founding chef Agustin Balbi is an Argentinian who spent his career in different parts of the world, including Japan where he honed his skills and appreciation for ingredients. Seated at a table with a good view of the open kitchen and the activities behind, the ambience is modern, with a sophistication in details, including a stone-textured ceiling, soft carpet with dim lighting to create a cozy
Seated at a table with a good view of the open kitchen and the activities behind, the ambience is modern, with a sophistication in details, including a stone-textured ceiling, soft carpet with dim lighting to create a cozy, warmth environment of comfort and relaxation.
After having a glass of champagne from Vouette & Sorbee Fidele Brut Nature, made purely from Pinot Noir, the headwaiter came to explain the menu to us, and presented a small booklet which contains a number of beautifully drawn cards, showing each course of the menu and the story behind which the chef wants to tell. A very artistic and innovative way to showcase the menu.
The Amuse Bouche is called 'Experience'. Served on a ceramic rock is a rice paper roll with seaweed wrapping some minced fish meat and radish. Really wonderful in taste with a burst of flavors upon biting. A shot-glass with some broth and finely diced cucumber provides refreshing complement.
Just want I think the staff came to take away the ceramic rock, they open it to reveal a beautifully prepared langoustine on charcoal cracker, with paprika made jelly on top and decorated with edible flowers. Fantastic in taste, the crunchy cracker contrasts with the soft langoustine with all the flavors are integrated in harmony.
The first wine for pairing is Peter Lauer faB 16 2018, a dry German Riesling. The first course is ‘Holidays with Nacho’, featuring a tartare made from 21 days aged Angus beef, with yuzu kosho offering a tartness which matches well with the wine, with also some kristal caviar on top. Beautiful in presentation, the flavors are also impeccable. There are some crisp texture which I am not sure came from the deep-fried shallot or something else but definitely added contrast in texture. A really nice starter.
The second wine for pairing is Castell d'Encus -SO2 2013, a Sauvignon Blanc that is made without any addition of sulfur dioxide, from Costers del Segre in Spain. The second course is 'Over and Over Again', with Mochida tomato, a ripe, juicy and sweet tomato grown from a farmer who has spent his whole life perfecting his produce. Inserted with a slice of Awayuki strawberry, the two matches both in color and sweetness, and the chef also uses them to prepare a sauce which is extremely tasty. A wonderful way to highlight the quality of the ingredients to the utmost.
The third wine for pairing is Daimon 45 Junmai Daiginjo, a sake with nice umami notes which goes well with the third course, 'Departure', showcasing five raw seafood sashimi. The scallops and the different types of fish are decent, and even though one cannot compare with a Japanese restaurant, the chef has used different sauces to accompany the sashimi to highlight different flavors. My favorite is the tuna, which has been smoked and then added with a bit of spicy Japanese pepper paste and soy sauce, very good in taste. The restaurant also offers us a choice of chopsticks so we can each pick our favorite color and design to go with the dish.
Next is something I found amazing, called 'Hundred Years Are Nothing'. The waitress brought up a tray displaying three different bread, one made with hazelnut, one with sun-dried tomato, and one with sea salt. The texture of the bread is a pure wonder, with a crunchy crust and a soft, fluffy, and honeycombed interior. The different flavors are all nice and accompanying with different butter to pair further reinforced the great taste. I cannot help but to ask for a second round of bread immediately.
Next, we have Matanegra from Ribera del Duero, a Tempranillo of power and good tannin, matching well with the course 'Garden's Laugh'. We were asked early in the dinner which type of beef we prefer, and both of us opted for the Angus because the Kumamoto wagyu is a bit too fat for us. The Angus beef is certainly flavorful, intense, with also with a tenderness allowing it to be cut easily. The asparagus, marinated peppers and fern on the side provide nice assortment of vegetable to go, and the jus is also very good. Another of my favorite in the evening.
Nearing the end the waitress brought us a cast iron pot, and then pour some the next course 'Without Lola', A recipe from the chef's grandmother, the Caldoso rice is a congee-like dish prepared with a broth, with the chef adding some baby squid and cecina, or dried meat. The broth is simply out of this world in terms of flavors, offering a comfort food while at the same time creating a delicious feast. Not sure the waitress see us devouring it in no time or other reasons, they brought in another serving so we can each have two extra bowls. Another interesting thing is that instead of wine, this dish is paired with a whisky made from rice, Ito Rice x Brew Sherry Vat Blended, a pure and soft rice distillate picking up the sherry note from the ageing vat.
The last course is 'We Both Loved It'. The Nerikiri wagashi is a Japanese dessert made with white bean paste and sweet rice flour. There is also a drink of Guji single origin coffee. I am not sure how they brew it but the flavors are unmistakable. A nice conclusion to a wonderful meal. The wine paired is La Magendia de Lapeyre Jurancon, with refreshing acidity but also a good sweetness.
With Petits Fours to go with our coffee, it is a satisfying and great meal. Service is good throughout, with the staff explaining the dish nicely and I am also impressed by the knowledge and choice of the sommelier. The bill was $5,709 with the menu of $1,688 each and the wine pairing of $1,288. When we were leaving Chef Balbi came out to greet and say goodbye, and also offer us a cake to bring home. A nice experience overall, this restaurant well deserved their Michelin star status.
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