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2022-10-02
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Central’s Monteverdi succeeds Trattoria Caffe Monteverdi in Sai Ying Pun, a rather quaint and casual Italian eatery specialized in handmade pasta. From the name of the restaurant, the intention seems to be a transformation from neighborhood trattoria to CBD ristorante. But regardless of location, Monteverdi’s prices (set lunches aside) always reflected its ambitious focus on good quality food, and I remember its menu used to include snippets of interesting information on food history and all kin
The new Monteverdi still feels rather casual for Central, and the whole setting make it seem family- or individual-run. There are no dazzling, extravagant pieces of furniture or fanciful décor that are so characteristic of many of today’s new restaurants where all of these non-food related expenses get passed onto the diners’ bills. Central has a real deficit of restaurants that are not super posh and pricey yet delivers fine tasting food.
The menu is not an extensive one, which may be a good sign. As I have no idea whether this new place continues to be run by the same owner back in the days in SYP, I came without expectations. We were pleasantly surprised, however. Both the appetizer and the campofilone pasta that we had were memorable highlights. The pasta in particular was superb with great texture and flavor. It tasted fresh and complemented well with the tomato-based lamb ragù. The main course which was a grilled seabass was less of a star, but still solid.
Hospitality was good and prompt overall. Our host, Chris, was a friendly guy who was both professional and passionate.
We will be returning to try Monteverdi’s other pastas.
Food Rundown
Complimentary bread
Toasted and aromatic
Potato CroquettesThe potato croquettes were stuffed with white truffle and cheese - not a lot of it but enough for the truffle flavor to be discernible. If you come a little hungry, these would surely delight.
Maccheroncini Campofilone with lamb ragùThe highlight of the meal. The pasta tasted remarkably fresh and picked up all of the goodness of the lamb ragù with tomato sauce. Everything was perfect.
Grilled SeabassThis was pretty good and aromatic, a sizeable portion as well.
Chocolate MousseNot a fancy, carefully decorated dessert but its simplicity did not stop it from being a tasty and hearty end to the meal.
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