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2023-06-18
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Dinner.First Hong Kong venture of David Toutain (two-Michelin-⭐️ chef from Paris); emphasis on seasonality, sustainably and ethical sourcing. Aptly named (leaf or foliage) in French.One Private room.Wine list was good. Went for a glass of burgundy red.One tasting menu with 15 courses, divided into four main sections, inspired by the life cycle of plants.Here’s what we had. 1. Grains & SeedsChia seeds in cold lemon-flavoured kombucha and drops of citrus oil. Very refreshing.Crispy tartlet made wit
First Hong Kong venture of David Toutain (two-Michelin-⭐️ chef from Paris); emphasis on seasonality, sustainably and ethical sourcing. Aptly named (leaf or foliage) in French.
One Private room.
Wine list was good. Went for a glass of burgundy red.
One tasting menu with 15 courses, divided into four main sections, inspired by the life cycle of plants.
Here’s what we had.
1. Grains & Seeds
Chia seeds in cold lemon-flavoured kombucha and drops of citrus oil. Very refreshing.
Crispy tartlet made with potato and flaxseed; filled with mulberry and beetroot purée. Garnished with raw stellaire/chickweed (蘩縷), which tasted fresh and grassy.
Deep-fried sweet potato skin stuffed with sweet potato purée and thyme.
Shiso-leaf tempura with sea grape, coriander jelly, mustard seed etc.
Replicating chef’s signature dish in Paris- scrambled egg and local baby corn pudding with cumin caramel and served in an eggshell. Server instructed us to first dip the accompanying breadstick into the rich and creamy mixture.
2. Leaves, Stems & Roots
Homemade bread with pumpkin and sunflower seeds. Loved the crunchy crust and soft interior. Chef replaced butter with a spread made with local dill and collagen laden turbot bones.
Clams and green peas with almond milk and agar.
Pea purée in clam shells topped with almond-milk jelly.
Added $580pp for custard made with chicken broth topped with Caviar, Shallots and croutons. Bit strong in flavors.
Added $240pp for White Asparagus and Morel mushrooms with yellow wine sauce and White asparagus purée.
My favorite dish of the night was the Turbot with Watercress in butter sauce and slow cooked winter melon.
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Spiny lobster in skewers over charcoal. Server instructed us to wait a bit before digging in, for the cooking process to finalise. Shouldn’t have waited, as both our lobster medallions were a tad overcooked.
Zucchini flower stuffed with lobster mousse; on a bed of zucchini purée with fennel jelly and mint.
(As we were leaving, the dining room was filled with the aroma of chargrilled lobster that other diners were having.)
Breast and leg of pigeon (locally sourced) with beetroot leaves. On the side: chewy beetroot gnocchi.
Bowl of beetroot consommé with pigeon fat.
Deep-fried beetroot slices layered with beetroot cream etc. Also a favorite- texture reminded me of the 豆沙鍋餅.
3. Flowers & Fruits- dessert
Melon with Saffron and Basil
Powdered and jellied tomato, longan foam and marigold petals.
4. Origins- petits fours
-Miso meringue
-Chocolate and hazelnut truffle
-White chocolate ganache topped with coconut ice cream and cauliflower foam.
In summary: loved it. Well portioned and finely executed showcase of nature’s bounty. Excellent service. Ceilings were quite low- excited chatter and shrieks of 3 excited ladies from the far end of the room sounded like the chatter of 30 excitable ladies.
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