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2009-03-17
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Even before the French Tire company has awarded 2 of the Lei Garden restaurants 1 'Michelin Macarons' each, I've always been of the view that this restaurant surely deserved some praise. Does it deserve any 'Macarons'? Yes in a relative way even though nothing here is outrightly outstanding.This review is infact based on several recent visits to Lei Garden's various outlets, lunch and dinner - this time, its a summary of visits to the Wanchai, IFC as well as Mongkok branch (I've also been to the
This review is infact based on several recent visits to Lei Garden's various outlets, lunch and dinner - this time, its a summary of visits to the Wanchai, IFC as well as Mongkok branch (I've also been to the TST and North Point Lei Garden in the past). I actually believe the Wanchai and TST outlets are slightly better than the IFC's restaurant, in fact some dishes were better executed in Mongkok than the IFC, but all in all they're pretty much more of the same, within a 15% range! Perhaps this consistency and good management and quality assurance is a reason why 2 separate branches of this chained Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong received Michelin stars as well as 2 other branches getting Bib Gourmand recommendations.
If anyone has noticed - most of restaurants in the world which have received coveted Michelin Stars, have all been owned or headed by a famous chef and kitchen team that oversees the food production. I certainly cannot remember any awarded restaurants off the top of my head which ARE run purely by a 'restauranteur', and with so many branches in the same city. As far as I know, probably none of the same local branch with the same trading name and same menus restaurants within the same city has been awarded repetitive stars. Of course, this case is no longer true if the restaurant has outlets in more than 1 city, but this feat by Lei is still impressive. The reason for this abnormality is simple - the restauranteur is a bit of a perfectionist who has a great filtering system and quality management skills to ensure all dishes in each branch are prepared to a minimum, certain standard. Whether it be in China or in Hong Kong or in Singapore.
This kind of consistency and achievement is indeed a rarity in the culinary world.... e Especially considering that some star chefs/kitchens can't even manage their 1 singular kitchen well, let alone depend on a team of relatively unknown kitchen hands and unnamed chefs usch at Lei Garden. (Even McDonald's has inconsistencies between branches in my opinion!)
The strong point of Lei Garden is that none of the dishes here are off-dishes - everything is prepared to a minimum of an acceptable standard without flaws. Great attention has been paid to the small details.
The weak point of Lei Garden meanwhile, is that so far, none of the dishes I've tried in my experience were really outstanding in a way, also, the menu here is rather uncreative and not so appealing. Its mostly run-of-the-mill Cantonese food that is done pretty well, but not exciting by any measures. In other words, boring food, but cooked well.
FOOD:
BBQ Items -
- The now famous Roast pork that are miniature and bite sized. Usually with a crispy exterior skin and fat rendered multiple layer meat beneath. On the good days, it can really be very satisfying, and on the bad days, still acceptable but nothing extraordinary - the one I had at IFC lately wasn't as tender and fatty as I've liked, trying to much to be elegant, but it was still ok-good. In my experience, the Roast pork at IFC is not as good as the ones at Wanchai for some reason. All in all, this is NOT the best roast pork in Hong Kong, I've had better occasionally elsewhere, but at least its consistently tempting enough. Consistently in the 75-90% range.
- BBQ Pork Char Shiu. This is also done pretty well and consistent at Lei Gardens, definitely better than the Fook Lam Moon version, and better than Yung Kee, even at its worst. Certain outlets seems to be much sweeter than the latest one I had at IFC branch, which had a nice charred taste and texture, not overly sweet honey glazing. Meat was relatively tender but could have done with a bit more fat. Consistently in the 75-90% score wise. Look how tempting the photo looks!
Dim Sims for Lunch -
Deep Fried Taro dumpling with Prawn. This dish is beautifully fried without a lot of oil and a nice crispy texture. Even better than the Fook Lam Moon version, especially the better fillings here, which are bitey and not overly chopped up, and not gooey like as in every other restaurant in HK. Very good always. 85-99% range.
Spring Rolls. Again, very satisfying on most occasions, comparable to Fook Lam Moons one except here, the fillings are even better again. 90%-95% ish.
Prawn Dumpling. The skin here isn't very transparent, but the taste and texture of most prawn and skin is usually excellent, although a bit bland. Around 75-90%.
Steamed Vegetable Sprouts Dumplings - barely seasoned, a bit bland at first but in fact, very fresh tasting, with a great textured, transparent skin. Could have done with more flavour though. 70-75%.
Light Deep Fried 'Fun Gor' like Dumpling (can't remember the name). This isn't the normal version, so it doesn't come with any chives soup. Very tasty indeed and must admit the texture of the skin is quite different from anything else I've had, almost like a Samosa skin yet quite appealing. Different from the Fook Lam Moon version, which is awesome and perfect as well. 90-95%.
Other dishes:
Fried Chicken - This is probably my favourite dish in Lei Gardens. Consistently moist, tender and flavoursome inside, with a perfectly crispy exterior skin. The worst one I've had was still better than the best ones I've had in other HK or overseas Cantonese restaurants. 80%-100%.
Mixed stir fried Vegetables - Consisting of Thailand asparagus, lily bulbs (?), some mushrooms, capsicums and ginkos. Topped with a crispy flour based nest. The execution is pretty but its rather bland, perhaps deliberately? The Thai asparagus had virtually no asparagus taste (despite it being in season). However, the wok fire 'wok chi' was well balanced - not too much and not too little. Personally, 60-70%. Could be better.
Oyster with Port sauce. Served in a lettuce wrap not unlike Sang Choy Bao, the American oysters are big and fatty. The batter was a bit oily but still acceptable and the port sauce reduction was more like a sweet and sour sauce. It has room for improvement. 75%.
Strawberry pork ribs. The version at Wanchai seemed slightly better for me, less acidic. Better than the Pang's jammy version in Happy Valley, although still not outstanding. 70-85%.
'Wa Wa Choy' vegetables in Fermented beans. Very nicely done, vegies are cooked just right without being over-fried and chewy like at Ding Tai Fung. Beans with a miso like taste made a wonderful compliment to the vegies taste. Very loved by a Japanese dining companion. 95%.
Steamed Fishes. Quality can vary a bit depending on the type of dish but generally it is quite good, albeit on the softer side in terms of sauce and seasoning. Probably deliberately trying to be elegant? Around 70-90% depending on luck.
Had many other dishes as well, but cannot remember off hand.
Desserts:
No comments. Haven't had it in recent visits due to being overfilled before the end of the meal! From memory, not overly impressive but usually light and healthy in taste.
Generally speaking - the reason why I like this 'chain' of restaurants is because it is rather consistent. I could dine there 100 times and it will still be reliably within my expected taste. One could argue that other Chinese or Cantonese restaurants might serve better certain food dishes, quality and creativity wise, but most of them can have off days or off dishes, unlike the case here. Expectations are nearly always satisfied albeit without surpassing them, plus, the prices here aren't as high as most of the other Michelin 1 Star restaurants. Not bad for a Chain Restaurant!
A high 4. But still not near a 5.
張貼
